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Friday, January 29, 2010

Got Mate?

Different cultures are fascinating.  One of the things I enjoy about the Southern Cone (Chile, Argentina and Uruguay) is the Mate culture.  After arriving in Chile I quickly discovered that Mate was one custom I could quickly appreciate.  Coffee and tea are offered automatically, but when the Mate is brought out the whole dynamic changes.  It is almost as if you now belong to the "club"... you are an insider, you understand, you now are fully welcomed into the circle.  Mate is more obvious in Argentina and Uruguay, but nowhere is it more a sign of friendship than in Chile.  After living in Chile and "perfecting" my Mate making and starting my Mate collection, I encountered many new friends to share with.  Let me back up and explain that the tea or herb is called yerba mate or just mate and the cup that it is served in is also called a mate.  This can be somewhat confusing to the mate novice.   The tea itself is grown mostly in Argentina, Paraguay and Brazil and  basically comes in two forms "con palo" (with little pieces of the branches mixed with the tea) or "sin palo" (without the little sticks). In Uruguay and Brazil they favor the "sin palo" and in Argentina and Chile the "con palo".  I cannot speak of the other countries that drink Mate such as Paraguay or Bolivia.  In the hotter regions they enjoy drinking their Mate cold or as they call it Tereré. In some Mate cultures such as the Mapuches of Chile and Argentina, they consume  Mate with inordinate amounts of sugar. Other peoples consider Mate with sugar as only for women!

The custom of drinking Mate seems to date to before the arrival of the Spaniards; there are accounts of indigenous tribes in Paraguay and northern Argentina chewing or drinking Mate.  The Spanish picked up the custom and the Jesuits then began to cultivate the Mate in earnest.

When preparing Mate there are culturally specific and prescribed ways to properly "cebar" (prepare) Mate, and this changes from place to place. When in a group, generally speaking, there is usually one person that is in charge of the Mate.  He or she is usually recognized as an expert in this art and has proved his or her prowess in the field.  This person is in charge of preparing the Mate, heating the water in the "pava" or teapot to the correct temp (not boiling), keeping the Mate moving around the group and also  freshening the Mate when the herb gets too washed out (lavado).  Sometimes specific herbs such as mint may be mixed with the Mate for health or digestive reasons.  Some do not like the strong flavor, but others take to it immediately. Annette likes Mate after it has made the rounds several times and is weaker.  She once compared the smell to fresh cut hay.

Some things to remember when drinking Mate:

  • Don't move the straw (la bombilla). This is only the prerogative of the one preparing the Mate and can be seen as an insult.
  •  Keep it moving.  Don't linger too long with the Mate in your hands.  I once heard in Argentina one man say to another, "Oye Che, no es un micrófono".  Loosely translated, hey brother that's not a microphone.  
  • When you drink the Mate, it is considered polite and even desirable to make a little slurping sound as you finish the last little sip.  
  •  When you don't want to drink more Mate, as you return the cup simply say "gracias" and the one preparing the Mate will not include you in the next round. (this explains why after the first Mate someone wanting to be polite says gracias and then wonders what they did wrong to be passed over with the Mate.)   
  •  If you are ever offered Mate by someone you are just getting to know...drink some.  You may not like it, but better to eat and drink what is placed before you than offend your host.  Some are a little queasy about drinking after others and sharing the same straw. My advice is "get over it". 

I heard of a missionary once that did not like drinking from the same straw as the rest of the pastors in their weekly meetings.  He bought his own bombilla and took it to the meeting in his inside jacket pocket.  When it came time for him to drink he pulled out the straw and quickly placed it in the Mate.  He thought that he had pulled off a smooth move when he heard one of the pastors exclaim, "look the missionary has brought a new straw for us to break in".  They then proceeded to pass the Mate to each pastor so he could try out the new straw.

Tradition states that when a young lady would prepare Mate for a young man, she could send messages by the way the Mate was prepared.  Sweet Mate... friendship or welcome, Mate with lemon...I would prefer not to see you, Mate with burnt sugar...I am thinking about you, Mate with milk...friendship or respect, Mate with coffee...I was angry but now I forgive you, Mate with a stopped up straw...Don't come back,  find somewhere else to drink Mate, Mate with honey...marriage.
(from, Mate Simbolo de Amistad p.58 Carlos Pedro Vairo)

There are many other facets to the Mate culture that are truly fascinating.  In all seriousness, I learned a lot about my brothers and sisters in Christ by sharing many hours around the table with a Mate in my hand.

If you would like to see a brief video on Argentine Mate preparation (in English) go to the following link.  Or just come by, and Annette and I will prepare Mate for you. 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m2otYqpcn00&feature=related  

Pass the Mate,
Mike & Annette

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